Jjigae & Stews — Paris

Kimchi, doenjang, silken tofu, the sausage-and-ham budae jjigae born on army bases — each version has its own character, but the shape is constant: a concentrated broth, a bowl of white rice beside it, a few banchan to balance the salt. This is Korean weekday cooking, as suited to a quick lunch as to an unhurried dinner. The Paris addresses gathered here treat stews as the heart of the menu rather than as something to order after the grilling stops. The signature dishes tell you at a glance who stakes their name on kimchi jjigae and who on sundubu.