Kimchi Jjigae — Paris

Add pork or tuna, tofu and spring onion, let it reduce, serve it boiling with a bowl of rice: this is the Korean household dish, and every household makes it differently. No single version is authoritative, which is what makes it interesting to eat across several addresses. It is a single-portion dish, served quickly, equally at home at lunch or as a meal eaten alone. A useful signal: the quality of the banchan served around it usually tells you what the whole kitchen is worth.