Hangover cure — Paris

Haejang — literally “undoing the alcohol” — is a category of its own in Korea: a hot, salted, mildly spicy broth taken the morning after. Seolleongtang, gukbap, pork-bone soup, bean-sprout soup; the principle never changes, a clear liquid simmered for hours rather than a rich plate. In Seoul whole districts run on this service at seven in the morning. In Paris they do not: very few Korean kitchens open before noon, so this list will be short, sometimes empty. What exists sits in the lunch service, which is still useful — the morning after has no fixed schedule. Cross with gukbap and soups or jjigae and stews to widen it, since the same broths can be ordered at midday without needing an excuse. And if you know a Paris address that opens early for this, tell us about it.