Drinks — Paris

Drinking the Korean way almost always means eating at the same time. Soju, makgeolli and beer come with anju — dishes built for the drink rather than the appetite: fried chicken, savoury pancakes, spicy tteokbokki, braised things meant to last. The register sits closer to a tapas bar than a cocktail bar, and the Paris rooms that do it well usually have an openly pocha character. The list below collects them. Combine with the soju, makgeolli or chimaek filters depending on what you want in the glass, and with late-night if the evening starts after dinner. The listings give the venue type, which is the quickest way to tell a restaurant that happens to serve alcohol from a place designed for an entire evening. One custom worth knowing: you fill your neighbour's glass, never your own.