Japchae

Everything starts with the noodle: made from sweet potato starch, it turns transparent as it cooks and keeps a soft, elastic bite unlike anything made from wheat. It is stir-fried with finely cut vegetables, mushrooms, a little beef, soy, sugar and sesame oil. The result is mild and free of chilli, and it works just as well warm as at room temperature.

It goes in the middle of the table and is shared like a side dish, though a single portion over rice makes a complete meal on its own. The strands are long, so taking a modest amount at a time saves dragging the whole plate along. It holds its quality across a long meal, which is why it appears at celebrations.