Kalguksu — Paris

They cook in the broth itself, which thickens with released starch and turns slightly cloudy — a texture no packet noodle reproduces. The broth varies widely between houses: dried anchovy, chicken, or shellfish, with courgette and potato. Eat it promptly, before the noodles keep swelling in the bowl and drink the broth they are sitting in. A chilli-and-soy condiment is usually set beside it, and it works better added in small amounts than all at once. The kimchi served with it is often a fresh, mild cabbage kimchi chosen to suit the broth.