Jokbal — Paris

Sliced off the bone, it is gelatinous rather than fatty, and it smells strongly of the braise rather than of pork. It belongs to late evenings and to takeaway orders, and it is associated with drinking far more than with rice. Each slice goes into a fermented shrimp dip or a spiced soy sauce, then into a lettuce leaf with raw garlic and a piece of green chilli. The texture is surprising on the first piece and becomes the appeal by the third. The cold noodles or fried rice offered alongside carry the meal on once the meat is gone.