Kimchi Bokkeumbap

Kimchi bokkeumbap is leftover cooking at its best: day-old rice stir-fried with chopped kimchi, a little of its juice, sesame oil and, depending on the kitchen, pork, spam or tuna. The kimchi should be old and sour — that acidity, more than the chilli, is what makes the dish. A fried egg on top and some crumbled dried seaweed finish the plate. In Paris it turns up in restaurants and Korean cafés alike.

Break the yolk and stir it through the rice before eating, with a spoon. It is a single bowl, quick and complete in itself — a bowl of clear soup or egg broth often comes alongside to soften it. Many add a sheet of dried gim to wrap a spoonful.