Galbitang

Where seolleongtang draws a white, neutral broth from bones, galbitang starts with meaty ribs and produces a clear golden liquid that tastes unmistakably of beef. Two or three rib pieces sit in it with radish, sometimes sweet potato noodles and a few shreds of egg. It carries a double reputation: a soup for celebrations, and a soup for someone recovering from something.

Start by separating the meat from the bone with chopsticks, letting it fall back into the broth. Rice can be eaten on the side or tipped in, and salt should be adjusted lightly if at all, since this broth is already seasoned, unlike several of its neighbours. Kimchi accompanies it but is not stirred in.