Pocha style — Paris

Today the word describes an atmosphere more than a place: loud, informal, oriented around drinking and shared plates, open later than average. A handful of Paris addresses claim that register. Expect tables close together, a menu of anju rather than a structured carte, and service that goes straight to the point. It is the right choice for a night out with friends and the wrong one for a dinner where you want to hear each other. Check the venue type before you go: it separates a room that closes with dinner from one that runs late.